AN ASCENT ALWAYS LEADS TO AMAZING VIEWS
Morning light over Laguna Hermosa (which means 'Beautiful Lake') illuminates the imposing Volcán Antuco on the left and Sierra Velluda on the right in the background. We’ve pitched our tent right by the lake.
Considering the tremendous ascents, heatwaves, and difficult terrain, this was perhaps the hardest part of the journey. Yet, the various campsites, breathtaking 360° views, and abundance of berries made every ache and sweat worthwhile.
-
It all began with the genuine hospitality of the locals, who took us on an extended family trip to their campsite in the middle of a pristine forest, breaking up the monotonous hike along the dusty road. To shorten the next day’s 1,500-meter ascent, we hit the road that same day. However, it soon became clear that the path leaving their land didn’t align with our route, and we found ourselves lost in an overgrown forest. So, instead of reducing the altitude difference for the next day, we spent our time finding a path and ended up camping in the forest.
As John Lennon once said, 'Everything will be okay in the end. If it’s not okay, it’s not the end.' We couldn’t agree more as we concluded this stage. Despite the challenges, the trail led us past the famous and imposing volcanoes Chillán and Antuco, across lava fields, and allowed us to enjoy the best berries. We even had condors soaring just 30 meters above us (hopefully not because we looked so bad). The highlight came at the end when we found ourselves with Laguna Hermosa (Lake Beautiful) all to ourselves. For a moment, we felt like the richest people in the world, with the path we had just walked displayed before us.
Crossing a river in our quest to find the path we were supposed to be following.
Ascending from the lava fields towards Cerro Las Minas.
Condor soaring low above our heads on the sandy pass. Note that I don’t have a zoom lens with me.
Our campsite in Valle de Aguas Calientes, located below Volcán Chillán. If you look closely, you can spot our tent near the top center of the image.
Leaving Volcán Chillán in the background.
Chatting with a friendly arriero. Besides asking where we’re from and where we’re headed, the most common questions we get are about my father's age and whether the feather on his backpack is really from a condor.