THE LAND OF MOUNTAIN CASTLE
Waking up at 5:30 a.m. on our third morning, quickly packing our tent, backpacks, and a breakfast of a few pieces of chocolate (I wish my father had let me have this kind of breakfast when I was a kid) was absolutely worth it. The sun gently casting its light over the fog-shrouded towers of Cerro Castillo above the lake of the same name was spectacular.
“Hola, hola,” a voice called from outside the tent. It was our first day in Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo, roughly translated as “National Park Mountain Castle when one of the park rangers came to warn us about a storm expected the next day.
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Heeding his advice, we decided to hibernate for a day to fully experience this national park, often rated as one of Chile’s finest.
We travelled south using a combination of buses and ferries to enter the true Patagonia, a land of mystique, remoteness, and untamed nature. Continuous sunny days and stable weather are behind us, but I couldn’t be happier. This region, full of surprises, often offers more than perfectly organized plans—it’s where the adventure begins.
PN Cerro Castillo lives up to its name. Not only is the mountain it’s named after a natural fortress, but most of the surrounding peaks resemble nature-made castles and gothic cathedrals. With a landscape similar to the more visited and famous Torres del Paine National Park further south, it feels even more magical and unspoiled by mass tourism or overpriced campsites. The Travesía Las Horquetas, which we completed, is a perfect traverse of the park, and we highly recommend taking enough time to explore multiple side valleys.
The stormy day passed quickly as I finished reading The Living Planet by Sir David Attenborough (a highly recommended book for anyone interested in nature and wildlife).
Like bears emerging from hibernation, we ventured out the next day to find everything blanketed in white. Snow had fallen overnight, and we continued our trek through a sunny winter fairytale.
P.S. A friend recently asked me what we think about while immersed in nature, disconnected from the outside world, the internet, and modern distractions. Most of the time, my thoughts are with the people I care about, reflecting on the past to learn for the future, and fully experiencing the present. However, on the hardest and longest days, both of us often dream of a cold, bitter, and delicious glass of local draft beer.
Snowy morning over the Río Turbio valley. The storm in the upper left corner of the image has passed, giving way to sunny days.
Villa Cerro Castillo, the gateway town to the national park, and the surrounding landscape as seen from the Morro Negro pass.
Golden light at sunset bathed the eastern side of Cerro Castillo in warm orange hues. With a touch of imagination, the mountain resembles a castle, complete with multiple lookout towers and fortresses.
Laguna Duff is just a short hike from our last campsite, Neozelandés, but it's a perfect afternoon addition to the trek. The last rays of sun cast a warm glow over the valley, illuminating the peaks of Punta El Olvido, Cerro Chocolate, and Cerro Palo.
Fetching water at Camping Neozelandés is well worth it, as you're greeted by this stunning view. Saying goodbye to this scenery was difficult, but I have a feeling I'll return in the future to climb the magnificent peaks surrounding it.