EL CHALTÉN - THE PROMISED LAND
Home. El Chaltén feels like that to me. I've already spent weeks here, and I know I'll return. I couldn't imagine a more fitting place to end what we started almost three months ago.
BIENVENIDOS A ARGENTINA
We are still here in Patagonia. As you haven’t heard from us in a while, I thought it only fair to update you on our recent happenings:
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We spent a few days waiting in Cochrane, Chile, as storms and rain persisted. The rivers rose, increasing trail dangers.
When the weather finally improved, my dad's knee worsened.
Faced with the worsening knee issue and ongoing weather troubles, we decided to skip the final Chilean stage, the historic Ruta de los Pioneros. Given the risk of needing a quick retreat if the knee pain intensified, we adapted our plans and let go of the disappointment to enjoy what came next.
We crossed the 5km border into Argentina.
Arriving in El Chaltén a week earlier than expected, we are now "home"!
This is my third time in El Chaltén, Argentina’s hiking capital. Despite its tourist popularity, the place retains its soul. The locals who live here year-round do so for the mountains, ensuring a chill atmosphere.
I’ll share more about El Chaltén in my next post, which will come sooner rather than later. For now, let me tell you about our first trek after a long break: the Vuelta de Huemul. Named after the iconic Patagonian deer (which we still haven’t seen), this multi-day hike offers a challenging yet rewarding experience. It’s less crowded than other hikes but incredibly diverse and manageable (trust me, I've done it twice).
With my dad’s knee improved by anti-inflammatory medication and corticosteroids, we were ready. Equipped with harnesses for Tyrolean crossings and joined by Mel and Sascha, we began our adventure.
The trail looked magical with freshly fallen snow covering the colourful autumn trees, under strong sunlight. Though the nights were cold enough to freeze our water, the mice were undeterred, munching through Sascha's tent, shoes, and even his glasses case.
The trek was amazing—crossing passes, walking on glaciers, viewing the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, swimming in glacier lakes, enjoying Fernet with glacier ice, and basking on sunny days.
Returning to El Chaltén was the perfect end to our Patagonian journey. This trek, shared with my father, will remain in my heart forever. Life is truly about adventures, stories, memories, and the people you share them with.
Our trip isn’t over yet—we still have much to explore around El Chaltén before heading to Huaraz, Peru, where the Huayhuash Circuit, dubbed the most stunning trail in South America, awaits. Stay tuned for more!
From Patagonia with love,
Anže
Autumn and winter have arrived together. Leaves have transformed into thousands of shades of red and orange, while rain has crystallized into snowflakes.
A tree full of austral parakeets, the southernmost parrots in the world. These vibrant birds are common in the temperate Patagonian forests.
Walking up the Paso del Viento (Windy Pass) is usually the trickiest part of the circuit. As the name suggests, the wind can blow ferociously, making it challenging to move in the desired direction. Fortunately, we were blessed with four days of sun and stable weather.
The view of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field is absolutely mind-blowing. Covering over 13,000 km², it is the third largest continental ice field in the world, surpassed only by Antarctica and Greenland.
Crossing rivers by tyrolean traverse is an adventurous, fun, and safe method to navigate swift rivers and canyons.